Late last year, The Spanish Acquisition put on a retrospective tasting of all of the vintages of Cillar de Silos Crianza that they have brought into the country, right back to the 1997. Ribera del Duero is the most represented region in my cellar, it’s the region that got me interested in Spanish wine in the first place, so I was very keen to get along and see how these wines had traveled over the years. I had suspicions that some of these would be a complete mess, every one of them showed really well. Complete, complex and highly enjoyable wines that really do reward cellaring. I should note that there was an issue with brett here from 99 to 2001, however it’s been cleaned up and the wines post 2001 all look clean as a whistle.
We had a cava and a rosado to start, then the 2007 and 2003 Jovens (the 2003 is looking great at the moment) and then on to the main game. This was all up stairs at Gertrude Street Enoteca, so of course some lovely food was dished up, including some excellent roast lamb.
1997 -Still kicking along nicely, tannins resolved but still plenty of primary fruit with some leather, wild herbs. 90 Pts.
1998 -Very similar to the 97, however a bit brighter and fresher. Some added minerals and black pepper, but lovely blueberry and cherry fruit. 92 Pts.
1999 -This is looking a bit funky, a fair bit of barnyardy goodness with some drying tannins. Still quite enjoyable, but showing a bit tired on this outing. 88 Pts.
2000 -More funk here too, but showing better than the 99. Very complex, with earthy minerals, barnyard, sage and lavender over some excellent fruit. 91 Pts.
2001 -Unfortunately this was a little clouded by bretty notes as well. Regardless of that, the fruit is still very primary and very juicy, tannins are a bit drying but overall quite convincing. 90 Pts.
2002 -Very clean and very moorish. Savoury with lots of herby and wild animal notes. Juicy cherry and blackberry fruit with great lenght. Perfect for drinking right now. 92 Pts.
2003 -Now this is the stuff, powerful and juicy, but kept on the leash. A few secondary leather and tobacco characters coming through, but mostly great juicy fruit. 93 Pts
2004 -Loads of tannins here, very well balanced and still fairly primary. Subtle, complex flavors. A long life ahead of it. 92 Pts.
2005 -Drinking really well, as per my note here. I need some magnums of this for the cellar. 93 Pts.
2006 -Just a pup at this stage, a bit closed and in need of more air time but showing plenty of potential. 92 Pts.
A quick taste of the 03 and 06 Torresilo followed, I had a quick taste and had to run for a tram to take me back to the office for an afternoon of meetings. It’s a pity I have to spit at these kinds of tastings, it just feels wrong when you have a great old wine in your glass. But unfortunately it’s very much a necessity during the working week!