Cillar de Silos Crianza 2006

Cillar de Silos is an old favourite, and this 2006 is showing very well. It was a challenging vintage, but the guys here seem to have to made all the right decicions and have producded something well worth drinking and cellaring over the medium term.

A beautiful nose of currants, blueberries and blackberry with  woodsmoke and gamey, herby undergrowth notes. Very smooth and supple in the mouth, plenty of fleshy tannins that lend texture and body. Its a touch flabby in the middle, but the acid cleans that up on the finish. Fresh juicy, fruit: blackcurrant and blackberry with a twist of vanilla and a lick of sarsaparilla. Blackberry and minerals on the long finish. 91 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: $55 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.cillardesilos.es

Other vintages: 2004, 2005

Gonzalez Byass ‘Solera 1847′ Oloroso Dulce

Yes, its time for another cream sherry tasting note. This one kicks goals however…A buggar to take photos of though.

A really enticing nose of wood and nuts, with a touch of raisin, coco powder and nutmeg. Creamy and intense in the mouth with notes of hot chocolate, dried fruit, hot cinnamon, orange peel and nice wood. Plenty of length here, with a warm, nutty finish. A real winner with a hunk of Queso Mahon on a cold night. 90 Pts.

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Augusti Torello Mata Reserva 2005

I  like some bubbles on a Friday night, its always a good way to kick of the weekend I have been drinking a bit of the Raventos i Blanc Reserva 2005 and needed something a bit different so I grabbed a bottle of this fairly new import from The Spanish Aquisition. I tend to favour the more focused and lower dosage sparkling wines, and this pressed all the right buttons.

The ATM Rosado Cava has been around for a while, but the rest of the range has just arrived and I am very impressed with this reserva. It’s from 30+ year old vines and spends 24 months on lees.

A nose of yeasty bread, green apples with a flinty, sea spray note. A vigourious bead in the glass, it’s tight and focused but still gives enough fruit and lees character to be a crowd pleaser. Tangy apples wizzed up with a bit of lemon, followed by a long finish of lemon sherbet and sea mineral tang. A classy bottle the could show a number of NV champagnes (at a higher price) a thing or two. 91 pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $40 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.agustitorellomata.com

Gonzalez Byass ‘Elegante’ Sweet Cream

What can you say about cream sherry? It’s is the quintessential ‘Nana’ sherry. It’s what many people reference of when they think of sherry, the big jugs of McWilliams Cream Sherry sitting at the bottom of cupboard that their grandmother used ‘just for cooking’. More often than not, if I give someone a glass of good sherry, more often than not I’ll get a comment about drinking it with nana in the kitchen while no-one was looking.  There are some amazing cream sherries on the market (this oloroso dulce is an example) Anyway, this is another blend of PX and palomino sherry, but it works a bit better than the last one.

Notes of dried fruit, mostly raisins, and wood with an almost malty, floral note. Quite nice really. But in the mouth it doesn’t follow through to the same extent. A burst of raisins and nuts on entry but it’s all too short. Viscus and kind of creamy in the mouth with some warmth on the finish. At this price you can’t really complain and Nana would love a sneaky bottle behind the cooking oil. 85 Pts.

An Negra Vit ‘Son Negre’ 2005

This is the top shelf offering from An Negra Vit. It’s made from the best vineyards these guys have access to with an average vine age of 55 years. What makes these vineyards special is the cooling sea breeze at night that cools the vines down from the heat of the day. Crop levels are kept at around half a kilo per vine and the juice is fermented in 3000 litre wooden vats. As with the AN, the oak treatment is 17 months in new french oak. These are excellently made wines, the wine is very well balanced and smooth and the level of extraction just right. Not cheap tho.

Very similar in profile to the AN, but the intensity and complexity knobs have been turned up a notch. Smokey, earthy nose of dark cherry, blackberry, and currants with a sprinkle of spice and a shake of herbs. A bit of a gamey note too. Plenty to like on the palate, a smooth entry followed by soft fruit tannins and a uber long finish. More of the same on the palate, but with some added spice and a step up in concentration from the AN. Excellent stuff, but I’d probably buy two bottles of the AN for the price of this. 94 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $230  Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.annegra.com

Gonzales Byass ‘Elegante’ Medium Dry Amontillado

Now, this is a blend of Amontillado and PX. I’m not too sure on why Gonzales Byass has a fascination with adding PX to perfectly good Palomino based sherry, but here is another example. I’m assuming that this is a throw back to the bad old days of exporting a range of sweetness levels to the UK. Anyway, it doesn’t blow my skirt up.

A nose of sweet, robust wood and walnuts with a hint of raisins. The palate is a odd, a mild level of sweet raisins, but then a hit of savoury nuts and old oak, a bit of coco too. A short finish showing a bit of alcohol heat, but its smooth from start to finish. It’s well made, and the nose is OK, but it just doesn’t come together as a drink. 80 Pts.

An Negra Vit ‘AN’ 2005

When most Aussie think of Mallorca they think of Christopher Skase, perhaps a party island culture, or maybe a boat load of poms completely binned out of their brains on the beach. But not wine. I’ve known that wine was made here but I never had an idea of the quality available. If it’s anything like this stuff, bring it on.

I haven’t got a lot of information on these guys, but from the look of it 3 guys set out to turn a dairy farm into a winery by sourcing indigenous Callet and Montenegro grapes from old sites around the island (over 100 of them!). They spent a couple of years working out how to make the wine and now seem to be on song.  AN is a blend of mostly Callet with a dollop (5%) of Montenegro from 50 year old vines. Fermentation is mostly in concrete tanks, with a few oak vats used as well. Then into new french oak for 17 months.

The colour is deep and dark with violet on the rim. An intense, smokey nose of plums and mulberry with a bit of earthy dark cherry and wild herbs. Very clean and focused in the mouth, smooth with velvety tannins and plenty of acid for a clean, long finish. Scorched earth, cinnamon and nutmeg over the top of some juicy, meaty fruit: blackberry and mulberry with a core of ripe cherry. It drinks almost like an Italian wine, it has overwhelming smoothness and structure but there is something wild about it too. 93 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $115  Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.annegra.com

Gonzalez Byass ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Dulce

I have a box full of fortifieds to get through at the moment, mostly sherry but also some fondillon from Alicante. Plus I was lucky enough to be invited to a Quinta do Noval masterclass a couple of weeks ago that I’ll write up this week. So if you’re a fortified fan you’ll be in for a treat over the next couple of weeks. Lets kick things off with this Oloroso Dolce. It’s part of the Solera Excusiva range, which are the older wines from GB, usually 30+ years old.

Oloroso Dulce is a blend of Oloroso and PX (ala cream sherry), it’s not one of my favourite styles but this does a convincing job.

Notes of dried dates, currants and raisins with some walnut and old oak character. It’s off dry in the mouth, not a sweet monster, with plenty of walnut oak, raisin, and toasty character in the mouth. Very smooth with extreme length and a welcome touch of warmth. There is a sweet/savoury thing going on that I like. Perfect for the cheese course. 91 Pts.

Tio Pepe Fino (375ml)

I’ve written this wine up before, but it’s such a classic I’m writing it up again. One of things with sherry is that it does change slightly from each drawing of the solera. It’s kind of like NV or MV champagne in that different disgorgement dates can be different wines altogether. The aim is to have a consistent house style and flavour, but there are always some small difference.I don’t know the bottling date on this one, but I’m sure that it is reasonably fresh.

I got home last night and decided that a bit of cooked up chorizo and some mushrooms in cream and garlic was the menu for dinner. The mushrooms need a splash of sherry or wine, so what better excuse to open a bottle. Plus I have some Tio Pepe copitas I bought back from Spain years ago, so Tio Pepe was the drink of choice…

Very pale in colour (don’t believe the picture, photoshop has tinted the colour a bit darker when I converted from RAW to JPEG) with a fine nose of apples, a touch of lemon and orange peel,  almonds and light flor character. Long and lively in the mouth with plenty of nuts, a shake of salt and orange peel. Balanced with crisp acidity. Not as precise and harmonious as my last bottle, but still a great fino. 90 Pts

Vintage Cellars Tasting

Last Wednesday night I took a short trip out to Camberwell to taste through most Vintage Cellar’s Spanish and Portugues range. Its quite a big range and it’s fairly much all come about in the past year, increasing from about 7 wine to around 30 with more on the way. A few Tinto y Blanco readers came along for the fun, which was great.

The focus is on quality wines at affordable prices, I found plenty to like here and there some real stand out wines from Ribera del Douro in the range. Here’s what I thought on the night:

DO Cava

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva NV ($13.99) - Bready and apply, quite fresh and refreshing. Looking quite good at the moment 86 Pts.

Segura Viudas Brut Rosado NV ($13.99) - Not sweet at all, dusty strawberry, quite pretty and light with something a bit herbal on the mid palate. 86 Pts

Segura Viudas Brut 2002 ($19.99) - The standout in this bracket, yeasty and nutty on the nose, cider apples and less character. Blanced fizz and acidity with plenty of length. 88 Pts.

Segura Viudas Semi-Seco NV ($13.99) - An off-dry style, sugared backed apples, a bit dusty but quite fresh. Mildly sweet. A bit simple and fruity with a clean finish. 85 Pts.

DO Rueda

Con Class Vendemia Excepcional 2007 ($17.99) - Grassy with passionfruit and a sweaty note (in a good way) on the nose. Nice and fleshy in the mouth, pear and apple. Plenty to like here. 87 Pts.

Con Class Verdejo 2007 ($11.99)- Fresh with plenty of fennel and pear on the nose, dusty and tangy. As I’ve said before, great for the cash. 88 Pts.

DO Rias Baixas 2006 ($16.99) - I didn’t take a note on this one, but still looking very good as per my note here.

DO Jerez-Sherry

Osborne Manzailla NV ($19.99) - Fairly classic manzilla notes of apples, sea spray, almonds and flor. There is something herbal on the mid palate that’s a bit odd at first but very enjoyable after that. 88 Pts.

DOCa Rioja

Aradon Joven 2006 ($9.99) - Juicy and fresh with bright cherry and blueberry. Earthy cherry and plum on palate with a clean long finish. A bargain at this price. 87 Pts.

Cosme Palacio Cosecha 2005 ($20.99) - Modern with lush fruit, plenty of cherry and plum with firm tannins and a touch of oak influcence. Solid wine. 88 Pts.

Glorioso Crianza 2004 ($17.99) - Here is a classic Crianza at a great price. A lovely nose of violets, plum and cherry on the nose with a bit of pencil shavings and earth. Traditional character with plenty of fruit. 89-90 Pts.

Glorioso Reserva 2003 ($27.99) - Subtle on the nose with some earthy cherry, plum and spice. The palate shows good fruit with some spice and slight coco. 88+ Pts.

Glorioso Gran Reserva 1999 ($45.99) - Surprisingly to me this was a crowd pleaser, normally people go striaght to the crianza or modern wines. Classic oak aged nosed of pencil shavings, mint/pine resin, strawberry and cherry with clove, nutmeg and cinnamon. A bit flabby in the middle, but some fine grained tannins and a very long finish. 90 Pts.

Bodegas Palacio Reserva Especial 2001($49.99) - A modern styled Super Reserva. Dark chocolate, espresso and ceadery oak over some dark cherry and plum fruit. The oak treatment is a little hamfisted, but there is some great fruit under there. I’m not sure if it’s in an odd place or just over oaked. 87 Pts.

DO Navara

Tandem Ars ‘In Virto’ Merlot Tempranillo 2005 ($14.99) - This opened up a bit reductive, but this blew off to show some chewy plums and cherry, nice chunky tannins and a generally soft friendly wine. A bit of sweetness in the mid palate, but it pulls it off. 87 Pts.

Tandem Ars ‘Nova’ Tempranillo Cabernet 2004 ($22.99) - Plenty of fruit here, but it’s earthy and savoury blue and red fruits. A bit juicy with nice fine tannins. 89 Pts.

Tandem Ars ‘Macula’ Cabernet Merlot 2004 ($32.99) - Soft, dry and plenty of flesh fruit tannin here. Nice plum and blackcurrant with some earthy herbs, but it doesn’t really grab me. 87 Pts.

DO Ribero del Duero

Vina Mayor Tinto Roble 2005 ($17.99) - A very well done roble with classic animale, cherry and blackberry with some herby bramble. Plenty of flesh tannins and well balanced acidity. 88+ Pts

Tabula Damana 2004 ($34.99) - These two next wines were the stand out of the tasting. This is all red cherry and mocha with some lavender and sage. Excellent mouth feel thanks to some refined tannins. Great length and character. Lots to like here and will cellar very well. 91+ Pts.

Tabula 2004 ($66.99) - Toasty oak over the top of blackberry and black currant with some violets. Juicy, meaty fruit with a shovel load of soft fruit tannins. Earthy and savoury with a core of perfectly ripe blue and black fruits. 93 Pts.

DO Priorat

Cims de Porrera ‘Solanes’ 2003 ($32.99) - An old standard that is back in Australia. pepper and spice, a little funky but very appealing. Nice plumy fruit with some pepper earth and herby bramble.

Portugal

Vinho de Mesa Rose NV ($8.49) - A little cheesy, but there are some fresh strawberry and raspberry notes. A bit too sweet for my tastes, but finishes nicely with some strawberry candy. 81 Pts.

DO Estremadura

Pink Elephant Rose ($11.99) - Musky, sweet strawberry with a good acid back bone, more in the winey style of rose. Designed for food and would be great with something spicy. 85 Pts.

DO Alenquer

Quinta das Setencostas 2005 ($14.99) - Fresh and spicy, savoury plums and blueberry. Plenty of texture and a lick of acid to keep things moving, a bit of mid palate sweetness that I’m not that keen on. 86 Pts.

DOC Porto

Taylors 10 Year Old Tawny Port ($49.99) - Nice aged characters on the nose, raisins and clove with a light sprinkle of mixed nuts. Very long finish with good integration of spirit. 90 Pts.

Taylors LBV Port ($39.99) - I didn’t catch the vintage on this, but will chase it up. Plum and cherry fruit with clove and nutmeg, a bit of hot cinnamon. Fleshy and well structured with plenty of vintage character. 88 Pts.