Gonzalez Byass ‘Solera 1847′ Oloroso Dulce

Yes, its time for another cream sherry tasting note. This one kicks goals however…A buggar to take photos of though.

A really enticing nose of wood and nuts, with a touch of raisin, coco powder and nutmeg. Creamy and intense in the mouth with notes of hot chocolate, dried fruit, hot cinnamon, orange peel and nice wood. Plenty of length here, with a warm, nutty finish. A real winner with a hunk of Queso Mahon on a cold night. 90 Pts.

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Gonzalez Byass ‘Elegante’ Sweet Cream

What can you say about cream sherry? It’s is the quintessential ‘Nana’ sherry. It’s what many people reference of when they think of sherry, the big jugs of McWilliams Cream Sherry sitting at the bottom of cupboard that their grandmother used ‘just for cooking’. More often than not, if I give someone a glass of good sherry, more often than not I’ll get a comment about drinking it with nana in the kitchen while no-one was looking.  There are some amazing cream sherries on the market (this oloroso dulce is an example) Anyway, this is another blend of PX and palomino sherry, but it works a bit better than the last one.

Notes of dried fruit, mostly raisins, and wood with an almost malty, floral note. Quite nice really. But in the mouth it doesn’t follow through to the same extent. A burst of raisins and nuts on entry but it’s all too short. Viscus and kind of creamy in the mouth with some warmth on the finish. At this price you can’t really complain and Nana would love a sneaky bottle behind the cooking oil. 85 Pts.

Gonzales Byass ‘Elegante’ Medium Dry Amontillado

Now, this is a blend of Amontillado and PX. I’m not too sure on why Gonzales Byass has a fascination with adding PX to perfectly good Palomino based sherry, but here is another example. I’m assuming that this is a throw back to the bad old days of exporting a range of sweetness levels to the UK. Anyway, it doesn’t blow my skirt up.

A nose of sweet, robust wood and walnuts with a hint of raisins. The palate is a odd, a mild level of sweet raisins, but then a hit of savoury nuts and old oak, a bit of coco too. A short finish showing a bit of alcohol heat, but its smooth from start to finish. It’s well made, and the nose is OK, but it just doesn’t come together as a drink. 80 Pts.

Gonzalez Byass ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Dulce

I have a box full of fortifieds to get through at the moment, mostly sherry but also some fondillon from Alicante. Plus I was lucky enough to be invited to a Quinta do Noval masterclass a couple of weeks ago that I’ll write up this week. So if you’re a fortified fan you’ll be in for a treat over the next couple of weeks. Lets kick things off with this Oloroso Dolce. It’s part of the Solera Excusiva range, which are the older wines from GB, usually 30+ years old.

Oloroso Dulce is a blend of Oloroso and PX (ala cream sherry), it’s not one of my favourite styles but this does a convincing job.

Notes of dried dates, currants and raisins with some walnut and old oak character. It’s off dry in the mouth, not a sweet monster, with plenty of walnut oak, raisin, and toasty character in the mouth. Very smooth with extreme length and a welcome touch of warmth. There is a sweet/savoury thing going on that I like. Perfect for the cheese course. 91 Pts.

Tio Pepe Fino (375ml)

I’ve written this wine up before, but it’s such a classic I’m writing it up again. One of things with sherry is that it does change slightly from each drawing of the solera. It’s kind of like NV or MV champagne in that different disgorgement dates can be different wines altogether. The aim is to have a consistent house style and flavour, but there are always some small difference.I don’t know the bottling date on this one, but I’m sure that it is reasonably fresh.

I got home last night and decided that a bit of cooked up chorizo and some mushrooms in cream and garlic was the menu for dinner. The mushrooms need a splash of sherry or wine, so what better excuse to open a bottle. Plus I have some Tio Pepe copitas I bought back from Spain years ago, so Tio Pepe was the drink of choice…

Very pale in colour (don’t believe the picture, photoshop has tinted the colour a bit darker when I converted from RAW to JPEG) with a fine nose of apples, a touch of lemon and orange peel,  almonds and light flor character. Long and lively in the mouth with plenty of nuts, a shake of salt and orange peel. Balanced with crisp acidity. Not as precise and harmonious as my last bottle, but still a great fino. 90 Pts

Lustau “Escuadrilla” Amontillado

Just a quick note today, I've got a load of painting to finish off before the end of the week. I'm mainly a fino/manzanilla guy, but I do enjoy a bit of older sherry action from time to time. Amontillado is a handy style as it goes well with cheese and is great with soup to start off a meal. 

In the glass its the colour of molasses. Fresh and vibrant nose of crushed almonds and peacans, coffee, and a touch of orange rind. In the mouth its savoury and mouth coating, but balanced by the acid and a touch of heat. Good length with an orange and coffee twist. Goes well with a wedge of hard cheese.  90 Pts.

Source: Boccaccio Cellars Price: $19 (375ml) Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.emilio-lustau.com

Sánchez Romate “Marismeño” Fino

Its good summer's day in Melbourne today, not too hot, but sunny.  Perfect for fino.  Well any day is a good day for sherry really.  So out came the olives, jamon, white anchovies and a bottle of fino for lunch today.  Now this is living… 

Almonds, apples, honeysuckle, orange blossom, and yeasty flor character.  Tangy and fresh in the mouth with a slice of acid that really cleans the palate.  A lingering finish with sea spray and anise.  Almonds, tangy flor and a touch a anise and lemon peel on the palate.  Great with snacky cured meats and fish.  92 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $30 (750ml) Closure: Cork Stopper

Web: www.romate.com

Romate La Sacristia de Romate PX NV

The La Sacristia reference in the name refers to the inner sanctum of the bodega that holds the oldest and most treasured sherries.  For a long time this was the domain of the bodega owners, their trusted staff and the odd celebrity or official passing though Jerez.  Some of the bodegas now sell some of this wine off in very small quantities.  As you can imagine, these are not cheap wines, but in terms of world wine values they are outstanding.

Dark red amber in colour.  Really refined on the nose, sure there is the customary raisins, but its the perfect level mixed in with old wood, orange peel, almond and a hint of cinnamon.  Surprisingly fresh and vibrant in the mouth, just stunning balance of all of the elements. Sweet, but restrained in the mouth with raisins, toffee, orange peel and some cinnamon on the monster finish.  If you couldn't tell, I like this a lot.   96 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $75 (500ml) Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.romate.com

Lustau Solera Reserva Jarana Fino

I still have a fridge full of Sherry, it has been very civilised to come home from work to a glass or two.

What makes Jerez and surrounds such a good place to make sherry?  As always, there are a couple of things that make this area unique. Firstly the climate, but also the soil.  They call it albariza, and its a fine, chalky soil.  Its a start contrast to the other soil types in the area and is perfect for growing palomino in the hot dry conditions.

Lustau have been around for quite some time and produce a huge range of sherries.  This one comes from their middle tier range.

Fine and light on the nose, almonds and apple with a hint of salt and flor.  Its a fruit plate in the mouth, crisp apple and nuts with an orange like tang on the finish.  Fresh, light and zingy is a good way to sum it up.  So well balanced, its far too easy to drink. This would be a good introduction to dry sherry, as well as making the old hands very happy.  90 Pts.

Source: Rathdowne Cellars Price: $15 (375ml) Closure: Cork Stopper

Web: www.emilio-lustau.com

Valdespino Inocente Fino

Back to sherry, and a very good one at that. Valdespino Inocente Fino is renowned as a great fino, all the big names have given it the nod.  Valdespino claims to be the oldest bodega in Jerez, they have been making the stuff for 700 years so they could well be.  However, the current business has been going since 1875

Very pale, almost neutral in colour, with a slight yellow/green tint.  A beautiful sherry fino nose, green apple, almonds and a slight note of iodine.  Its dry and bursting with freshness in the mouth, jam packed full of classic flavours: a light bitter herb and a yeasty, woody character mixed in with some salty nuts.  Complex and refreshing. Nicely balanced, it has a prick of acid and a nice smooth finish.  A classic.  How can wine this good be so cheap?   92 Pts.

Source: Importer Sample Price: Around $17 (375ml) Closure: Cork Stopper

Importer: Negociants Australia