Gonzalez Byass ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Dulce

I have a box full of fortifieds to get through at the moment, mostly sherry but also some fondillon from Alicante. Plus I was lucky enough to be invited to a Quinta do Noval masterclass a couple of weeks ago that I’ll write up this week. So if you’re a fortified fan you’ll be in for a treat over the next couple of weeks. Lets kick things off with this Oloroso Dolce. It’s part of the Solera Excusiva range, which are the older wines from GB, usually 30+ years old.

Oloroso Dulce is a blend of Oloroso and PX (ala cream sherry), it’s not one of my favourite styles but this does a convincing job.

Notes of dried dates, currants and raisins with some walnut and old oak character. It’s off dry in the mouth, not a sweet monster, with plenty of walnut oak, raisin, and toasty character in the mouth. Very smooth with extreme length and a welcome touch of warmth. There is a sweet/savoury thing going on that I like. Perfect for the cheese course. 91 Pts.

Tio Pepe Fino (375ml)

I’ve written this wine up before, but it’s such a classic I’m writing it up again. One of things with sherry is that it does change slightly from each drawing of the solera. It’s kind of like NV or MV champagne in that different disgorgement dates can be different wines altogether. The aim is to have a consistent house style and flavour, but there are always some small difference.I don’t know the bottling date on this one, but I’m sure that it is reasonably fresh.

I got home last night and decided that a bit of cooked up chorizo and some mushrooms in cream and garlic was the menu for dinner. The mushrooms need a splash of sherry or wine, so what better excuse to open a bottle. Plus I have some Tio Pepe copitas I bought back from Spain years ago, so Tio Pepe was the drink of choice…

Very pale in colour (don’t believe the picture, photoshop has tinted the colour a bit darker when I converted from RAW to JPEG) with a fine nose of apples, a touch of lemon and orange peel,  almonds and light flor character. Long and lively in the mouth with plenty of nuts, a shake of salt and orange peel. Balanced with crisp acidity. Not as precise and harmonious as my last bottle, but still a great fino. 90 Pts

Lustau “Escuadrilla” Amontillado

Just a quick note today, I've got a load of painting to finish off before the end of the week. I'm mainly a fino/manzanilla guy, but I do enjoy a bit of older sherry action from time to time. Amontillado is a handy style as it goes well with cheese and is great with soup to start off a meal. 

In the glass its the colour of molasses. Fresh and vibrant nose of crushed almonds and peacans, coffee, and a touch of orange rind. In the mouth its savoury and mouth coating, but balanced by the acid and a touch of heat. Good length with an orange and coffee twist. Goes well with a wedge of hard cheese.  90 Pts.

Source: Boccaccio Cellars Price: $19 (375ml) Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.emilio-lustau.com

Sánchez Romate “Marismeño” Fino

Its good summer's day in Melbourne today, not too hot, but sunny.  Perfect for fino.  Well any day is a good day for sherry really.  So out came the olives, jamon, white anchovies and a bottle of fino for lunch today.  Now this is living… 

Almonds, apples, honeysuckle, orange blossom, and yeasty flor character.  Tangy and fresh in the mouth with a slice of acid that really cleans the palate.  A lingering finish with sea spray and anise.  Almonds, tangy flor and a touch a anise and lemon peel on the palate.  Great with snacky cured meats and fish.  92 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $30 (750ml) Closure: Cork Stopper

Web: www.romate.com

Romate La Sacristia de Romate PX NV

The La Sacristia reference in the name refers to the inner sanctum of the bodega that holds the oldest and most treasured sherries.  For a long time this was the domain of the bodega owners, their trusted staff and the odd celebrity or official passing though Jerez.  Some of the bodegas now sell some of this wine off in very small quantities.  As you can imagine, these are not cheap wines, but in terms of world wine values they are outstanding.

Dark red amber in colour.  Really refined on the nose, sure there is the customary raisins, but its the perfect level mixed in with old wood, orange peel, almond and a hint of cinnamon.  Surprisingly fresh and vibrant in the mouth, just stunning balance of all of the elements. Sweet, but restrained in the mouth with raisins, toffee, orange peel and some cinnamon on the monster finish.  If you couldn't tell, I like this a lot.   96 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $75 (500ml) Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.romate.com

Lustau Solera Reserva Jarana Fino

I still have a fridge full of Sherry, it has been very civilised to come home from work to a glass or two.

What makes Jerez and surrounds such a good place to make sherry?  As always, there are a couple of things that make this area unique. Firstly the climate, but also the soil.  They call it albariza, and its a fine, chalky soil.  Its a start contrast to the other soil types in the area and is perfect for growing palomino in the hot dry conditions.

Lustau have been around for quite some time and produce a huge range of sherries.  This one comes from their middle tier range.

Fine and light on the nose, almonds and apple with a hint of salt and flor.  Its a fruit plate in the mouth, crisp apple and nuts with an orange like tang on the finish.  Fresh, light and zingy is a good way to sum it up.  So well balanced, its far too easy to drink. This would be a good introduction to dry sherry, as well as making the old hands very happy.  90 Pts.

Source: Rathdowne Cellars Price: $15 (375ml) Closure: Cork Stopper

Web: www.emilio-lustau.com

Valdespino Inocente Fino

Back to sherry, and a very good one at that. Valdespino Inocente Fino is renowned as a great fino, all the big names have given it the nod.  Valdespino claims to be the oldest bodega in Jerez, they have been making the stuff for 700 years so they could well be.  However, the current business has been going since 1875

Very pale, almost neutral in colour, with a slight yellow/green tint.  A beautiful sherry fino nose, green apple, almonds and a slight note of iodine.  Its dry and bursting with freshness in the mouth, jam packed full of classic flavours: a light bitter herb and a yeasty, woody character mixed in with some salty nuts.  Complex and refreshing. Nicely balanced, it has a prick of acid and a nice smooth finish.  A classic.  How can wine this good be so cheap?   92 Pts.

Source: Importer Sample Price: Around $17 (375ml) Closure: Cork Stopper

Importer: Negociants Australia

Tio Pepe Fino

OK time for some fino, manzilla's big brother.  Tio Pepe is the leading fino sherry in Spain, and indeed around the world. Fino is a good match to the spicier tapas dishes such as gabas al pil pil (Throw some medium size prawns in a cazuela with some slices of garlic, chili and plenty of olive oil.  Heat it up until its all sizzling.  Eat).

You've probably heard all about the shelf life of sherry, Tio Pepe doesn't have a bottling date on the back, so ask how old the stock is before you buy.  If its older than a year forget it, less than 6 months is ideal.  

Very pale in colour, almost clear.  The nose has some great almond with lemon and the classic yeasty flor character. In the mouth its very smooth and exceptionally balanced, yet at the same time its fresh and crisp. The nutty flavours from the nose show themselves in full on the palate, there is also a surprising green apple character.  The acid is great on this wine, freshening but not overly sharp.  A great fino, just make sure you get fresh stock.  92 Pts.

Source: Retail Cost: $28 (750 ml)  Closure: Cork Stopper

Web: www.tiopepe.co.uk

Sanchez Romate Sherry

I went along to a great sherry tasting put on by Peter Kimber earlier in the week.  Peter had matched up each sherry with some great tapas cooked up by a bloke called David.  What more could you ask for?  I didn't take any real notes on the night, but here are some brief impressions.

Sanchez Romate Fino Marismeno - Pale straw in colour. Nervy and tangy, dry and crisp. Classic combo of almond and honeysuckle, with great acid that keeps it very fresh.  Really good.

Sanchez Romate Amontillado NPU - Deep amber in colour, showing the 30+ years of oak aging.  Hazelnuts almonds and floor wax on the nose, calmer and more approachable than the fino in the mouth. Long finish. Outstanding.

Sanchez Romate Oloroso Don Jose - light amber with a redish hue.  Quite complex, walnut, smoke and some oak notes, quite warm and inviting.  Went very well with a duck and chorizo stuffed mushroom.  Very good.

Sanchez Romate Cream Iberia - Sweet and rich on the front palate but dry and savory on the finish.  Raisins, toffee and nuts, smooth and intense, but not overwhelming like the PX.

Sanchez Romate Pedro Ximenez Cardenal Cisneros - As always with PX, it is thick, dark and brooding. The nose is a heady concoction of dried, crushed raisins, mixed with molasses and then poured over plum pudding.  There is some smokey wood in the mouth if you look for it, but the concentrated, raisiny fruit and huge wack of sweetness are the main features.  There is a bit of acid providing some restraint and balance. Very good.