Category Archives: Spain

Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil 2008

gaba-08I am developing a bit of a soft spot for Godello. I have always liked it, but there have a been a few recent example that have really delivered, both in the interestingness and drinkability factors. Its one of the lesser known grape varieties from Spain, often over shadowed by Albariño and Verdejo. I find it more exciting than verdejo and more versatile than albariño in it’s ability to give a good refreshing drink while matching with a wide range of foods. It seems to go very well with Thai food and is excellent with goats cheese for some reason.

Valdeorras is a very striking place too, very hilly and rainy. There are some great photos on the Temlo Rodriguez website. In fact I think they might have the best photos of any wine website I’ve seen…Anyway, hopefully I’ll get a chance to have a quick look around here when I’m back in Spain in February.

This version from Compania del Vinos de Telmo Rodriguez is looking very raw at the moment (this is a good thing), there is some clear power there, but the classic pears, freshly cut hay and a touch of guava and hot wax are all there. Very robust and tight for a white wine, kind of like white burgundy in structure, but nothing like it in flavour. Crunchy minerals and an acid laden finish. A little fleshy, the texture is silky and fine. I’ve not had an aged godello, but this looks like it has the goods to go for at least 5 years…90Pts

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $28 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.telmorodriguez.com

Other Vintages: 2005, 2006

Toscar Rosado 2008

toscar-rosado-2008It is that time of year when a good rose is in order. Well, it is normally. We’ve been getting good rain here in Melbourne, which is odd for this time of year but more than welcome. This puppy is 100% monastrell from Alicante, and it confirms my thoughts that the best two grapes for rose from Spain are Monastrell and Garnarcha. Although a rosado made from Mencia that I tasted a couple of weeks ago was excellent as well…mor on that soon.

The nose is almost meaty, with plum and strawberry notes. A bit of toffee and earth round this out nicely. There is a slight texture there in the mouth, balanced out with some good acid. The palate has a tangy red apple note to it, with some light plum juice and earthiness. Savoury and very drinkable, with or without food this is a winner for $14. It’s under screwcap too. How can you go wrong? 88 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $14 Closure: Screwcap



“My Favourite Spanish Wine” 2007

my-favourite-07It is quite a cheeky name, but the value here is unmistakable. I’m sure google will have a field day with the title of this post too…So a similar blend to the 2005 I reviewed a while ago, Tempranillo and Monastrell from Alicante in all its fresh and rustic glory. And it’s in screwcap now too.

Open and ready to drink, the nose offers up plums and cherries, with some earthy herbs and a rustic mustiness. Open weave on the palate with a bit of edge to keep it interesting. Light tannins and good acid. It drinks like a champ, round and fruity, but not overly sunny and obvious. My neighbour is cooking lamb chops on the BBQ (and they smell fantastic), I might have to go and see if I can pinch one…87 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $11 Closure: Screwcap

Capcanes ‘Lasandal’ 2006

lasendal-2006I had a craving for grenache on the way home last Thursday, a quick stop in at City Wine Shop turned up this little gem. The flash new label really stands out, I like the textured paper with bold black ink, great for photos. Packaging is all well and good, but who gives a toss? It’s all about the wine, and in this case it’s a garnarcha/syrah blend (85%/15% respectively) with a spell in older American oak.I’ve been following this wine for a while now, this is the best yet.

This is really bright and vibrant, but with all they savoury, earthy, herby stuff that makes Spanish granache so tasty. Raspberry and black cherry on the nose, hot rocks, sage and rosemary, earthy and musk. It has a core of juicy fruit wound up in a ball of light tannins, minerally acid and good length. It’s smooth and refreshing. Highly enjoyable and drinkable, I’d drink now but there is nothing wrong with keeping it for a couple of years. Excellent value too. And yes, I did buy it for the label… 92 Pts.
Source: The Spanish Acquisition RRP: $40 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.cellercapcanes.com

Other Vintages: 2000, 2004, 2005

Adegas Galegas Dionisos 2008

dionisos-008Albariño season has reared its head a bit early this year, its been bloody hot for the last couple of days in Melbourne. Perfect for sitting in the yard with a bowl of clams after the sun goes down. Pitty I didn’t have any clams. I know I always go about shellfish with albariño, its only because its a perfect combination. If you haven’t already seen it, have a look at Spain on the Road again…. for an example of what happens in Galicia. However, if you do watch it, have the remote handy. Mario Batali must be one of the most boring and annoying people on TV, and there is plenty of him waffling on about crap in each episode he’s in…he should stay in the kitchen.

Anyway, back to the wine. I like the style of this wine, it balances the floral notes with firm acidity very well. There is that trademark minerality that shows up in good vintages in Rias Brixas, along with plenty of green pear, lemon and lime leaf complexity. Its just long enough and has a tangy lemon sherbet/hot rocks thing going on the finish. Very easy to drink, it’s on the firmer side of Albariño which makes it perfect with food. The price is a couple of bucks cheaper than last year too. 91 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $28 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.galiciano.com

Other Vintages: 2007

Balbas Barrica 2008

balbas-barrica-20081Some Spanish wine law is a bit out there. Media crianza, semi joven, or barrica are all names for wines that have seen less than 12 months in oak, making the wine not quite a crianza or a joven wine. Now this isn’t an official term, people just make it up, but Barrica (which just means barrel in Spanish) seems to be winning out in Ribera del Duero and Toro. Confusing or what? Not a particularly great marketing plan, many Spanish people don’t know what it means either. Anyway, this puppy is all tempranillo that has 4 month in oak. It works quite well this wine, rather than adding unneeded wood it adds a nice edge to the wine.

Its a bit meat and savoury on the nose, a bit of herb, a bit of earth and plenty of dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit. Tight and fine in the mouth, a back line of acid and slightly raspy tannins. Licorice and spice, cherry fruit and tangy herbs on the palate. Nice drinking now, it will hang around for a while too, say 5 years, at its best. Very tidy for the price too. 89 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $25 Closure: Conventional Cork

Balbas Reserva 2004

bilbas-reserva-2004The big daddy from Balbas. Reservas from Ribera del Duero are one of my favourites wines to drink, old or young. The juicy fruit with plenty of complexity is super satisfying. This is along similar lines to the crianza, perhaps a little more traditional in its focus. The vintage shows through here: big flavours, big tannins and lots of potential in the cellar.

Again there is 10% Cabernet in this, and it shows. There is a green, herby capsicum note in there that blends in the with the stoney cherry fruit. Fragrant and very fresh smelling, with a bit of varnish, vanilla and spice. The palate on the other hand is initially smooth and gentle but hidden in there are deep, powerful flavours and bold tannins with some cutting acid. All the ingredients for long aging, but don’t be afraid to drink it now, its very approachable now. Substance and style. 93+ Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $65 Closure: Conventional Cork

Balbas Crianza 2006

bilbas-crianza-2006This is a new one from Ce Soir, part of a range of wines from Ribera del Duero. One of the older bodegas in the region making very smart wines. Well worth seeking out. There is a dollop of Cabernet in here is well, which is quite typical and traditional for the region…I’m not usually a fan, but there is always an exception to the rule.

This is interesting straight of the bat. The nose shows bloody salami notes, dark cherry, voilets, gun smoke and hot iron…a little ceadery oak in the background too. Savory and dry, plenty of flaky tannins backed up by tangy acid. Morish. The palate shows plenty of dark red fruits, licorice and herbaceousness. Very tidy, reasonable value and shows plenty of regional character. Drink now and over the next 10 years.  92 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $39 Closure: Conventional Cork

Granbazan Albariño ‘Amber’ 2007

img_5394From the fairly classic, but low yielding 2007 vintage comes this funky bottle of Albarino. I do like the packaging on this stuff, very old school but some how appealing. I always seem to come to the late in the game, the 2008 should almost be here by now. The amber bottling is from the first free run juice, there is also the green bottle which I think includes a bit of pressings…but I’m not sure if its imported these days.

The standard white peach, jasmine and honeysuckle, crisp pear nose of albarino is in full force here, a touch of talc to go with it. Taught and lean in the mouth, acid behind the fruit driving it along. Plenty of crisp green pear on the palate, mixed up with a bit of lemon and lime rind and sprinkling of rocky minerals. A long  finish that shows of that minerally acid and a hint of apricot that I always seem to find in this wine. Good drinkin’. 90 Pts.

Source: Rathdowne Cellars Price: $38 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.agrodebazansa.es

Other Vintages: 2005

Remelluri Reserva 2005

img_5419This is another wine that shows the differences between the 2004 and 2005 vintages in Rioja. Both are great vintages in my book, but they are so for very different reasons. 2004 is a very long lived vintage, but it isn’t really giving a lot of joy at the moment. Its full of promises, but those bottles will have to survive the late night, drunken cellar raids and ‘I just want to see how it’s travelling’ trials. The 05 on the other hand is just a joy to smell and drink at the moment, but it has a long and full life ahead of it too.

Now I liked the minerally bite of the 04 version of this wine, but the lovely perfume coming off this 05 is magic stuff. Treading the fine line between traditional and modern Rioja, this is very much in the savoury camp, yet full of ripe fruit aromas, violets and roses, a little mocha coffee, and a handful wild herbs. Very appealing on the nose, and this continues in the mouth, firm but ripe tannins, a long lingering finish, and plenty of acid to keep the balance. Slightly sour on the palate, good notes of cherry, a little cola, sage and undergrowth and a little chocolate and spice. A pleasure to drink now, this will only improve over the next 3-5 years and drink for 10 years after that. Very compelling stuff. 93+ Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $60 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.remelluri.com

Other Vintages: 2003, 2004