Embruix de Vall Llach 2004

Some more 2004 Priorat.  This one is from Cellar Vall Llach, at the bottom end of their quality tree.  These guys seem to be on fire at the moment, their 2002 and 2003 wines were very well received and they seem to at the very top of the heap for the 2004 vintage as well. 

Embruix is made from the fruit of younger vines and sees mainly older french oak for 16 months.  It is a blend of 35% Garnacha, 30% Carinena, 20% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot.  There are some fancy winemaking going on here too, 50% malo in tank, the rest in wood etc.

Its a brooding black/purple in the glass, the nose very primary and sooty.  It opened up a lot more with time in the decanter and shows aromas of crushed rock, soot, liquorice and subtle blue and black fruits, blackberry and blueberry mainly.  Extra smooth, but concentrated with luxury tannins.  More blackberry on the palate with pepper, black currents, and a bit of tar.  Well balanced and long.  This wine seems very young at this stage, I'd but it away for a few years then drink over the following 10.  I can't wait to have a look at the other wines in the range.  91+ Pts.

Source: Boccaccio Cellars RRP: $60 Closure: Conventional Cork

Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi 2004

I've been busy writing up some note from an excellent tasting last week, but got distracted and started writing a note on this wine. 

Priorat can be a hard sell at times, mainly due to the cost. There are a number of factors that influence the cost of such a wine. Just about everything here must be done by hand due to the hills and terraces of schist that make up the growing areas (if you are familiar with port, think Douro valley), that's picking, pruning, planting, everything.  The best old vine sites are very rare, with a lot of the plantings happening in the past 20 years.  Then there is the balance between high demand from local and international buyer and low production.  Huge import taxes here in Australia don't help, and the list goes on.  However, when I look at these prices I see the pricing is very similar to that of many of the big names across the boarder in the Rhone valley, especially in Chateauneuf du Pape where grenache blends rule the roost.  According to one American wine writer, the Rhone is the true bargain area for wine in the world. That must make wine such as this a relative bargin…

This is the mid level wine in the line up from Alvaro Palacios in Priorat, the grapes come from a single vineyard that consitst of 60% Garnarcha and the rest made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Cariñena.  Fermented in wooden foudres then 18 months in new French oak.  I pulled out the very long cork and decanted for a couple of hours, then had a half a glass.  The rest went to an offline, where it was fairly well received.

Quite deep in colour, but there is a nice ruby edge to it.  A good swirl in the glass was need to get the most out of the nose: chary smoke, blueberries and raspberry with an irony mineral smell.  Floral notes of violets and roses show up with more time in the glass.  In the mouth its smooth and tanninic at the same time, you can clearly see that its built to age.  Great fruit that shows its stuff, but is well restrained: plum, raspberry and a bit of cherry with loads of minerals.  Very good length and structure.  I'd let this sleep for a couple of years, then drink it over the next 10.  93 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: Around $140 Closure: Conventional Cork

Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2004

To celebrate the ability to taste and smell again, I double decanted a couple of bottles and headed down to La Luna in Carlton for lunch with the lads yesterday.

This is a regional blend from Alvaro Palacios in Priorat, all of the grapes are bought in and its rumoured that he pays 3 times the going rate to get the best possible selection of fruit for this wine.  The blend is 40% Garnacha, 40% Carinena and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and the wine sees 12 months in oak.

Initially quite reserved on the nose, it opens up with blackberry and  dark cherry fruit and adds cinnamon initially.  With some more air, a pleasant sooty aspect appears.  Well balanced and refined in the mouth with a good hit of acid. The soft fruit tannins build into a great texture as the wine opens up.  Lots of complexity with more dark fruits with licorice, crunchy minerals, pepper and spice.  Great length and with more mineral and sour fruit on the finish.  Looks like 04 Priorat is going to be a killer vintage.  91 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: Around $60 Closure: Conventional Cork

Clos Mogador 2003

Its about time I had a look at this wine, the lads over at Winorama have had two shots at it so far.  

The 2003 vintage was a tough one for Priorat, extreme heat, rain just before harvest that introduced the right conditions for a nasty case of botrytis.  Still, many good wines were made. As always choose from quality producers.  Its not cheep stuff this, but I'll see if I can get some more 03 Priorat in to have a better look.

Like a lot of wines from Priorat, it is a mix of a load of different varieties: Mostly garnarcha with cabernet sauvignon, syrah and cariñena.  It comes over very young at the moment, I decanted for 4 hours and it came up really well.

Blood red in colour, with a slight bit of purple on the edges.   The nose start off very closed and sooty, but with time it came around beautifully: cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit with great mineral, aniseed, sage and spice notes.  Very complex nose, a bit of VA, but not overwhelming and adds to the nose.  Smooth, savory and medium bodied in the mouth, ripe, smooth tannins and wonderful texture.  On the palate it mimics the nose with some extra dark current and plum fruit, with a slight dark chocolate note.  Great intensity. The finish is long with a good lick of minerals and more smooth tannins.  You could call it rustic given the flavours, but its not at all.  Its not modern either, its just Priorat I think. A perfect match with slow roasted lamb with a rocket and parmesan salad.  Hold off for a 3 more years and drink over the following 10. 94 Pts.

Source: Boccaccio Cellars RRP: $120 Closure: Conventional Cork

Cims de Porrera Priorato “Solanes” 2001

These guys are apparently one of the stalwarts of Carinena (Mazyelo in Rioja or Carignan in France) for quality wines in Priorat. This wine is a great little blend of 90% Crinaena and 10% Grenacha. I could drink Priorat wines all day, pity about the pricing…

A deep red core, browning at the edges. Great nose of minerals, dark cherry, some floral notes, a bit of smoke and earth as well. Very clean in the mouth, tart raspberries, dark plums and a load of spice and pepper. Its quite integrated and if you're into tannins, you'll love the noticeable but smooth tannins and the long finish. Really enjoyable, I want a second bottle. It could probably improve over a couple of years, but why wait? 91 Pts.

Source: Retail RRP: $65 Closure: Cork