Rías Baixas
Castro Martin 2006
I think this is the last Albariño in the tasting pile at the moment. I'll duck out and get some more over the Christmas break. This is the most fun albariño around, it has the most expressive albariño aromatic characters, doesn't break the bank and so easy to drink.
Castro Martin is made from estate owned vines in the Valle del Salnés, one of the coolest areas of Rias Brixas. Most vineyards in Rias Brixas are quite small family holdings with the grapes sold off to the bigger bodegas or as part of Co-Op. While its not unheard of for a bodega to make a wine solely from its own vines, it is seen to be an additional sign of quality within the region.
A light straw colour, with the trademark Castro Martin nose of white peach, jasmine and honeysuckle with some green lemony goodness. One of the things I love about Albariño is the mouth feel, and this doesn't disappoint. Slightly oily, but with just the right amount of acid to keep you mouth fresh and ready for more. This bottle is still a little, its showing tangy lemon and apple with a bit of melon. Fluffy white peach and musk sticks as it warms up a bit more. A bit of sage and lemons on the finish. 90 Pts.
Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: $30 Closure: Synthetic Cork
Albariño de Fefiñanes 2006
Albarino seems to be flavour of the month at the moment in Melbourne. The 06s have landed and just about every bar I walk into has one by the glass. Unfortunately, most are served way too cold and the punters must be walking away thinking that albariño is Spanish for riesling. Of course its not all bad, there are people on the ball. Bar Lourinha are doing a great job serving their albariño at about 10 degrees. You can always warm it up with your hands.
When I had a look at the 2005 of this wine in February, I didn't think much would top it. But the 06 is something else altogether. As with many of the other 2006 albariños I've tasted, this is more about the fruit. If its that minerally element that draws you to albariño, don't worry its still there supporting in a supporting role.
Big wack of white peach, apple and pear with some honey suckle on the nose. Bit of lemon and spice shows up as the wine gets warmer. Luxury mouthfeel, well balanced and just the right amount of everything, good length, tangy and complex but fresh. More white peach and pear on the back palate, with apple up front. As it warms up a touch of ginger and lemon oil with some sweet kaffir lime/orange on the finish. A flinty, minerally note is shot through the wine, that makes the whole thing that much more interesting. One of the most intriguing white wines I've had from Spain. Ever. 94 Pts.
Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $40 Closure: Conventional Cork
Web: www.fefinanes.com
Other Vintages: 2005
Valmiñor Albariño 2006
Rias Brixas apparently had a great year in 2006, and if this wine is anything to go by I'm looking forward to drinking more albariños from this vintage over the next few months. From this vintage so far I see great, fresh fruit with the usual stone fruits, but also some tropical fruits on the nose and palate as well.
Very pale in the glass with aromas of white peaches and lemons with a tropical fruit mix. A bit more air add some white flower notes. Smooth, but fleshy with great balance and length. More tropical fruit on the palate, a bit of melon, pear and lemon with some minerals on the finish. Good intensity and very pure fruit. 91 Pts.
Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $30 Closure: Conventional Cork
Albariño de Fefiñanes “1583″ 2005
Now this is something a little bit left of centre. Even the name 1853 is a bit odd. You'd think it was the date of the establishment of the vineyard or the date of some great happening in Spain, but its actually the birth year of the guy who built the Palacios de Fefiñanes.
Redardless of all that, the wine is very complex with just about all of the things I like about good Albariño but there is also an oxidative aspect to it. What makes this wine a bit different is that this wine sees 5 months in French and American oak, a fairly new thing in the world of Albarino. I'm not sure if I prefer the wood treatment or not yet, I might get another bottle of this with the 2006 standard wine in a couple of weeks to compare.
Light straw in colour with a slight green tint. Shows aromas of white peach, hints of white pepper with pear and honey suckle. Not as tight and precise as the standard wine. I'd say broad in the mouth, but thats not quite right, perhaps mouth filling. But balanced with a good shot of acid right where its needed. Complex on the palate with white peach, pear, minerals, lemon and some salty capers on the long finish. 91 Pts
Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $50 Closure: Conventional Cork
Web: www.fefinanes.com
Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño De Fefiñanes 2005
This bodega is one of the oldest in Rias Brixas (with the longest name too!), started in 1904, and they were the first to bottle an albariño wine in 1928. And what a wine it is, possibly the best Spanish albariño I've had to date. A great wine to put in a blind line up, there are shades of German Riesling, a bit of viognier from the Rhone, loads of minerals and flint, but remains true to form if you know what you are looking for. This is a must see wine for the albariño freak, but its not cheap.
Pale straw in colour, the sweet aromatics are on straight away: white peach, musky white flowers, apple blossom, a slight bit of sea spray with a suggestion of lemon. The first taste immediately has me interested, a luxurious oily texture, flinty, minerally, complexity, great balance and length. A big hit of flavour: apples, white peach, minerals and flint, and pink musk sticks. I'd drink this on its own, not to say that it wouldn't be great with food, but its so enjoyable by itself. 92 Pts.
Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $40 Closure: Conventional Cork
Web: www.fefinanes.com
Condes de Albarei Albariño 2005
Albariño certainly seems to be popular at the moment. I'm not sure how its selling, but there are at least 8 very good wines available in Australia now, not bad for a white wine from Spain. Condes de Albarei is a fairly old co-op of 400 growers with 170 hectares of Albariño in the Salnes Valley, from which they knock out 1.5 million bottles of Albarino a year.
It falls into the glass with a pale straw colour and shows off its aromatics very well. Lots of floral notes of white peach, apple juice and a slight lemon juice wiff. Crisp and tangy, but lightly oily at the sames. Well balanced and full of flavour too : white peach and melon, a bit of minerally acid and lemon. Great summer drinking. 88 Pts.
Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $30 Closure: Conventional Cork
Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2005
It has finally happened, a screwcapped albariño has landed on my desk. And its not your ordinary stelvin, its one of those funky embossed stelvin+ jobs. But that isn't the only reason to like this wine, its bloody good.
The old Rioja stalwarts, La Rioja Alta, bought this bodega in 1988 and have been putting out consistently good wines ever since. The vineyards and bodega are located in the O-Rosal sub region of Rias Baixas.
Light gold in colour, the nose has fresh pear and apple fruit with a bit of herb and mineral that adds complexity. In the mouth its pointed and tight, fresh and a touch oily. Flavours of apple, pear and a touch of apricot, but its the flinty mineral notes that shine here. Excelent balance and a very persistent finish. If you are into albariño, get some of this, you'll love it. If your new to albariño, it will certinly show you what all the fuss is about. 91 Pts.
Source: Importer Sample Price: Around $35 Closure: Screwcap
Web: www.riojalta.com/lagar.htm
Importer: Negociants Australia
Castro Martin Albariño 2005
Its been a while since I've had an albarino, now is the perfect time to start getting stuck in. I still haven't seen a lot of Australian albarino yet, I hear its going in all over the place.
Light in colour, a slight hint of gold. Classic albarino nose of white peach, jasmine and green apple, not as aromatic as the 04, but I may have it a little bit too cold. Fresh and tight in the mouth, crisp acid, lemon, honeydew melon, and a bit of white peach. Nice and oily too. There is a herb tang when its cold, but it disappears as the wine warms up. All I need now is a big plate of mussels or pulpo de galicia. 89 Pts.
Source: Rathdowne Cellars RRP: $30 Closure: Synthetic Cork
Santiago Ruiz Blanco 2004
Here is another blend from Rias Brixas, this time a mix of 70% albarino, 20 loureiro and 10% treixadura. Funky packaging seems to be important to the people of this region, the label on the front of this bottle is a copy of a hand drawn map of how to get to the owner's daughter wedding.
This is the most expensive white wine from Spain I have had, transport, taxes etc put it into the $50 level. You can get some great wines, red or white, for $50…no wonder I had to order it in.
Citrus, peach flowers and herbs on the nose. Very serious in the mouth, oily and textured with a good acid level. Flavours of lemons, apple, minerals, fennel seeds and bay leaf. The finish is very long with a citrus and bay leaf tang. This shows what these blends from Rias Brixas can do, value for money in Australia is an issue however. 91 Pts.
Source: Boccaccio Cellars Price: Around $50 Closure: Conventional Cork
Valminor Davila 2004
I've been looking for some new white wines from Spain, so I ordered this in. It's Valminor's upscale wine from Rias Brixas, made from 55% Albarino and two other local grape varitaties, loureiro (30%) and treixadura (15%). I'd never heard of them either, but this blend makes for a very interesting wine.
The packaging is quite good too, it describes the relationship between the elements that go into the making of the wine. Quite well done.
Very different on the nose, apples, apricots, and cucumber with a bit of fennel seed. There is a bit of a spritzy feeling in the mouth, citrus, white peach and minerals with some white pepper. Its quite powerful with noticeable acid and a persistent finish. An interesting wine, perhaps it needs a few years to show its best? 89 Pts.
Source: Boccaccio Cellars Price: Around $40 Closure: Conventional Cork
Recent Comments
- Dave Worthington on Faustino VII 2006
- Justin Roberts on Faustino VII 2006
- rm on Alvaro Castro Dão Tinto 2007
- Dave Worthington on Alvaro Castro Dão Tinto 2007
- rm on Alvaro Castro Dão Tinto 2007
