This time in Spain I’m having a bit more of a holiday and I’m focusing more on food than a full on wine adventure: lazy days with long lunches, lots of jamon and roasted lamb, and of course a bit of wine here and there. Of course I can’t help but have a couple of appointments in and around Bierzo, plus a couple more in Rioja to get the low down on the 2009 vintage. I’ll post up some notes as we going along…Oh and another thing. If you haven’t checked out the new (or not so new) Movida book “Movida Rustica”, do check it out. From the brief look I’ve had so far it looks like its full of ‘real’ Spanish food.

Anyway on to the wine. Love the label and the 2008 is much better than the 2007 that was around for a little while mid last year. Fresh raspberry and earth is the first thing on the nose, it opens out to show some cherry and a little herb. Easy to drink, but still kind of serious and savoury at the same time. Meaty with soft tannins, its a little light in the acid department. Very likeable with a nice hunk of goat. 88 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $27 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.vinosherenciaremondo.com

Now I liked the minerally bite of the 04 version of this wine, but the lovely perfume coming off this 05 is magic stuff. Treading the fine line between traditional and modern Rioja, this is very much in the savoury camp, yet full of ripe fruit aromas, violets and roses, a little mocha coffee, and a handful wild herbs. Very appealing on the nose, and this continues in the mouth, firm but ripe tannins, a long lingering finish, and plenty of acid to keep the balance. Slightly sour on the palate, good notes of cherry, a little cola, sage and undergrowth and a little chocolate and spice. A pleasure to drink now, this will only improve over the next 3-5 years and drink for 10 years after that. Very compelling stuff. 93+ Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $60 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.remelluri.com

Other Vintages: 2003, 2004

I’ve got a couple of entry level on the tasting bench at the moment, this is the first. This was a big hit for me last year, a wine from Priorat at this price level and quality was quite rare at the time. But now wines in the $40-$60 price bracket are the must have item for many importers. And who’s complaining, seeing as the top wines from the region are going up again this year? There doesn’t seem to be one style at the price point, some are big rounded, easy drinking things, others are a bit tighter and focused. This falls into the later camp…

Plenty of Priorat character here, sooty, black coal kind of notes up on the nose first off, then a bit of hot tar and violets. After that the fruit: raspberry, plum and light cherry notes. The tannins are a little gritty and grainy, but it’s all nicely balanced and there is acid, enough to keep the finish sparkling clean, tangy and long. A similar profile on the palate, a bit of licorice and wood spice adds a bit extra. Overall, an excellent example of Priorat that doesn’t wander off in to rustic red wine, it looks like fine wine from Priorat.91 Pts

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $39 Closure: Conventional Cork

Other Vintages: 2004

Now this is one smart little wine. It’s a more traditional version of rioja crianza, but it also made in a moden style using french oak and plenty of fruit flavour. Its a bit tight and young, which for a crianza at 5 years of age is very admirable, give it a quick shake in the decanter to free up the lovely rioja funky herbs. The nose kicks off with some  shaved wood notes, a little coffee and nutmeg, then into the cherry, blueberry fruit. All of that is followed up by a bit of wild herb and some liquorice with more air time. And that’s fairly much the recipe for this wine, the palate is similar but a bit heavier. Nice tannins lead to a bit of structure and edginess, but there is plenty of round, ripe fruit to make this a pleasure to drink. 90 Pts.

Source: Toro Wines Price: Around $35 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.eguren.com

This is a note that has been in draft mode for about 6 months now. Not because the wine is bad or anything like that, its just an increadbly hard wine to describe. Reading an article in the NY Times, I thought it was about time to post it. I bought this bottle after coming back from Rioja and visiting López de Heredia and literaly being overwhelmed by how these people make this crazy wine. By all logic is should be well past it by the time it’s released, I mean who has heard of white wine kept in casks for nine and a half years then in bottle for another 13 or so years before its released?  The people who make it say the secret is the acid, and you can clearly see that when you taste it. It looks oxidized, but tastes like it could do another 10 years standing on it’s head. It sounds like it should be musty and mouldy, but its fresh and floral.

They also make a load of red wines and age them just as long, or longer in some vintages, but for my tastes, its the white wines that are king here. The reds follow some form of noble decay it seems to me, while the whites are on the up and up, dramatically evolving into these highly polished, aromatic wonders that thrill in so many ways: colour, flavour, and scent. They continue to unwrap themselves from years in the dark while in your glass, a touch of orange rind here, some vanilla there, lillies, then lemon, more white flowers, toffee, and on it goes. I’m told they go with rich white meat dishes and fish in heavy saucese, but you’d have to be crazy to drink this wine with food. It demands respect and there is plenty of depth to explore on its own.

A tasting note defeats the purpose here, this is an experiance wine.. There is nothing else like it the world of wine, so what do you rate it against? Other vintages of the same wine, I’d guess. Pitty I’ve only seen 4 vintages and they are all different, but all great, so I couldn’t call one 93 points or the other 99 points. You could pull hundreds of descriptors out too, a bit boring to read really. Your best bet to get any idea of what this wine is about it to buy a bottle, kick back with a book and a nice big glass and drink it over four or five hours. It’s not a difficult wine to like, but more for your wine geek than for your average punter, so why not drink the bottle yourself?

The thing I really like about these wines is that they are actually inovative, but the inovation was done 100 years ago and processes and method have just stayed the same. The family has held fast to the idea and watched many of the other wine trends pass by, and return in some cases. Single vineyard wines are still uncommon in Rioja, but are seen to be a modern thing.  Lopez de Heredia have been doing it for 100 years. There are many modern things going on at the bodega too, but tradition rules.

Source: Toro Wines Price: $180 Closure: Conventional Cork and Wax

Web: www.lopezdeheredia.com

Embarrassingly, its been nearly 5 months since I did a full tasting at the bodega in February and I still haven’t finished the bodega profile and tasting notes. Oh well, they’ll be up on the site at some stage. However, I will say that the impression I left Muga with was this: absolute attention to detail, extreme energy and passion, but all done with a quiet swagger of confidence and experience.

Spicy wood notes, over some gorgeous fruit: mainly cherry and mulberry with a bit of red currant. Add to that a mix of  oregano and thyme and a little coffee. Lovely acid and flush with fleshy tannins.  You get lovely bit of acid popping in between the fruit, then this suave and subtle expression of fruit that weaves itself in. Just perfect line and length. Tangy minerally finish. Given this tasting, I am going to pull out a fairly big score. However, I think this has greater appeal that the Marques de Riscal 04, and would dock the Riscal a point or two based on this. Drink now with a good decant, or keep it for 3 year then drink over the following 10. 93+ Pts.

Source: Toro Wines Price: $55 Closure: Conventional Cork

This wine uses the classic Rioja crianza formula: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 10% Mazuelo, 12 months in wood (mostly older I’d say). Fresh, fruity, woody, and tasty.

It opens up all ready running: wofts of  cherry, earthy herbs, vanilla bean and wood spice. It has a rustic edge, the tannins are kind of fat and well rounded leading to a chunky mouth feel. Not too heavy, savoury and food friendly. Cherry and plum show through on the palate, a little blueberry as well. I can really get into this, a winter comfort wine if I ever tasted one. Drink over the next 4 years. 89 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $29 Closure: Conventional Cork

Again, I’ve had this a couple of times now, but this was clearly the best bottle so far. I had a very good bottle in Rioja with some chuletillas al sarmiento, lamb chops cooked over vine cuttings. Sounds simples, but the lamb in Northern Spain is something else. These things are so popular they have a facebook page with over 1,000 fans! Have a look here for some more details on the food of Rioja from the guys at Catavino.

On first pour into the decanter there was wofts of dark cherry, plum and cola with not much else going on. Fast forward to the last glass of the night it was showing loads of violets and roses with layers of cinnamon and nutmeg, chocolate, dried herbs, and pencil shavings. Not a lot of obvious oak notes. The palate is full of rich flavours, but the wine remains savoury. Plush velour-like tannins with seemingly perfect balance. And that is the key here, it’s all balanced and well sorted for a long life in the cellar. You can drink now, just give it a good decant, but ideally you’d cellar this for 5 years then drink over the following 15.  95+ Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: $125 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.roda.es

Locked up tight upon poring into the glass, but slowly notes of espresso coffee and mocha start to eek their way out. Then its a rush of fruit: cherries, a little blackcurrant, raspberry and plum. Then its the full deal: earthy herbs, a little cola, woody spice and pencil shavings. In the mouth there are those great Roda tannins, lush and full, with a balance of sweet and savoury fruit with pleasing acidity. It’s quite juicy too, which I like.  I have a few hesitations in rating this higher then the 04, I think the 04 has it by just a whisker right now. But still, this is excellent booze. Drink from 2012 to 2021. 93+ Pts

Source: The Spanish Acquisition RRP: $85 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.roda.es

As this was a fairly hastily organised lunch session, I jotted down a few notes on the wines after lunch as an after thought. But as there has been some interest, I thought I’d write them up.

2002 - This was a clear winner from the word go. The nose was full of aromatics: violets and field herbs, bright red cherry, a touch of plum and a little blueberry. Savory and earthy on the palate.  Superb balance and integration, as well as some finely textured tannins make this very pleasurable drinking right now. I’d say that this is drinking at it’s peak, but will hold for a good 5 year or so yet. 94 Pts.

2003 - This was looking a bit blocky and had a darker fruit profile than many other wines in the line up. Otherwise a classic cherry cola, wild herbs, a bit of coffee and chocolate. The tannins are still quite firm, if anything I would say this needs more time in the cellar.  91+ Pts

2004 - Now this was a bit a odd ball. When I opened these bottles, this was the only one with a question on both cork and storage. Initially a bit musty and not giving up much at all. However, we returned to the glass after an hour and a half and it was singing. Very much like the 2002 at this stage, it hints at being a more complete wine when it wakes from a long slumber in 3-4 years. Looking great. 93+ Pts.

2005 - To be honest, this was in a bit of a weird place. Not showing as generous or as complex as the other wines at the moment, we agreed to put this down as a slightly off bottle. NR

2006 - This is more like it. Impetuous youth in all its glory, plenty of lush fruit, with violets and roses, but at the same time super savoury and earthy. I reckon this is going to be a great wine in a couple of years, it has all the boxes ticked so far. 93+ Pts.

I’d sum this wine up with four words: light, bright, earthy and fruity. It’s not a ‘Sunshine in a bottle’ type of wine by any means, but it has very clean cherry and blueberry fruit that’s striking and the real star here. The palate and nose add a few earthy herbs,  a bit of liquorice and a little violet. Medium bodied with a few soft tannins, it’s a fun drink that works with food or on it’s own. 88 Pts.

This 2004 is a cracker. While very primary at this stage, it has all the signs that this will have a long and full life ahead of it: balance, bucket loads of firm tannins, and spine of acid. The nose shows sour cherry and mulberry fruit, a little mocha coffee, pencil shavings, slight herbs and anise.  It was showing a bit blocky on the first night, but the second was much better: smooth and medium bodied with plenty of minerals on the finish. Putting some of this in the cellar will put a smile on your face in about 10 years. 93+ Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $60 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.remelluri.com

A seductive nose of roses and violets, dark cherry, musky dark cherry and blueberry, espresso, dark chocolate, earthy herbs and freshly cut wood. It is the floral notes that really attract me to this wine, it’s highly perfumed. The palate is not slacking off, plenty of chewy tannins and fresh acidity leave me with the impression of prefect balance.  Intense and brooding at the moment, backwards if you will. An intensely flavoured palate, cheery, blueberry with layers of  plum, light cinnamon, earth undergrowth, liquorice root, clove and espresso.  Huge finish. An excellent wine that will live in the cellar for a very long time, leave it for 5 years to brood and then drink over the following 15. 95+ Pts.

Source: Toro Wines Price: $135 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.eguren.com

Other Vintages: 2003, 2005

It looks very concentrated in the glass, dark cherry red, and emits aromas of dark cherry, plum, espresso coffee, pencil shavings and earthy sage. Lush and luxurious in the mouth, big fluffy tannins that coat your mouth, but with the required acid to leave your palate fresh for the next slurp. The flavour is a big slap in the face, powerful but not over the top with dark cherry, plums, blueberry and freshly cut wood. There is a bit of oak impact here, but nothing over the top. Very primary in profile, it needs a good decant to get the most out of it at the moment. Otherwise, into the cellar for 5 year, then drink over the next 15. 95+ Pts.

Source: Toro Wines Price: $140 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.eguren.com

On the rumour front, we had a quick chat about the new Toro venture. The highly successful Numanthia bodega was sold to LMVH for a tidy sum that has allowed the group to both expand it’s operations in Rioja, hence the new bodega, and to concentrate on a new property in Toro. The new bodega is called Teso la Monja and can be found just across road from Numanthia, apparently you can wave to the new owner of Numanthia. A three tier structure of wines will continue here, look for new releases in the next couple of years.

Now these guys have a huge range of wines, so we sampled a range of their Rioja wines - including some of their best wines.

Sierra Cantabria Crianza 2005 - Sierra Cantabria is the more traditional range here and is made in a bodega in San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Full of fresh fruit and plenty of character. The wood is hardly noticeable and flavor profile is the classic red cherry, cola and wild herbs of Rioja. 88 Pts.

Sierra Cantabria Reserva 2004 - while this is the ‘traditional’ range, there has certainly been some work done to bring this wine up to date. You can see that french oak on the nose but it’s not intrusive. Fresh red cherry, herby undergrowth, a bit of clove and cinnamon with some licorice. There is a minerally edge to this wine that really makes it stand out. Excellent value drinking here. 90 Pts.

Sierra Cantabria Cuvée Especial 2005 - This wine doesn’t make it out to Australia, not sure why, but it was my pick of the Sierra Cantabria wines. Its 100% tempranillo from 30+ year old vines with some deft oak work. Lush and fresh with plenty of character, the nose is quite aromatic with violets and earthy notes, long length and good balance. A very smart wine for the price. 91 Pts.

San Vicente 2005 - Now this guy took a while to come around, but when it did it was well worth the wait. For me, the main thrust of this wine is the aromatic nose: violet, rose, cherry, raspberry and blueberry, vanilla, freshly cut wood and subtle herbs. The palate isn’t anything to scoff at either, fine knit tannins, a very long finish and the excellent balance that seems to be a trademark of the house. 94 Pts.

El Puntido 2005 - We had a couple of bottle of this wine during the trip, one at the excellent Restaurante Héctor Oribe in Paganos itself. Gutsy and potent, this shows sappy plum fruit with bright cherry, earth and spice. Definitely full bodied with plenty of oak work that suits this style. This is full strength Rioja, but it’s not over done and everything is impeccably balanced. 93 Pts.

Sierra Cantabria Organza 2007 - This is a white wine made from old Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca vines and aged in brand new french oak. A very modern style of white Rioja that drinks really well. Textured, but fresh and zippy. Notes of white melons, lemon peel and nutty spices, this is something quite different and shows you can do good things with the traditional Rioja white grapes. 90 Pts.