Pazo San Mauro Albariño 2007

Of the main regions of Rias Brixas, Condado de Tea is the least represented in Australia. The region is a bit more challenging than Val do Salnés and O Rosal, its a more inland with river valleys, a touch warmer and the soils are more solid and slatey. This wine is made by Cristina Mantilla, who also makes Valmiñor. Expect classic Albariño with plenty of flavour and a touch of minerals.

Fairly much text book albariño on the nose: freshly sliced lemons, a shake of white peaches, a bit of jasmine and lime blossom. A convincing mix of texture with a tight acid backbone, gives good mouthfeel. It’s very long on the finish with some rocky minerals and a lemon tang.   Clean, fresh, and direct, the palate mirrors the nose for the most part. A classy act. 90 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $35 Closure: Conventional Cork

Martin Codax ‘Burgans’ 2006

A month or so ago I bought a bottle of this wine and the screwcap was faulty. I had the replacement scheduled for tasting on Monday night, when I got an email from the wine buyer for Vintage Cellars followed by a chat on the phone about closures and their range of Spanish wine. It turns out that there was a bit of a problem with this batch, about 1% of the batch had a faulty or loose screwcap. Still better than cork according to most failure statistics. The fault has been noted and action is being taken to resolve the fault.

So on to the wine. This is the entry level wine for Martin Codax and its probably the only Spanish Albariño available under $20. And its a good wine too.

Aromas of white peach, lime, white flowers and a subtle muskiness. Its got texture in the mouth, its a bit flabby and sweet in the middle, but the acid balances this out for a clean finish. Apple and white peach on the palate with a bit of flint and lemon oil. It’s a well priced drink, It’s not going to knock you off your feet, but you can now afford to drink Spanish albariño any night of the week. 87 Pts.

Mar del Frades Albariño 2006

This albariño is a little bit different to many of the wines we have seen here in Australia. And even though most albariños are food wines, this one is especially so. These guys really emphasise the relationship between the sea and the food and wine traditions of Galicia, right down to the blue bottle with waves at its base. There is also a little gimmick here, if you look at the larger image there is no blue ship on the front label. If you bung the bottle in the fridge for a bit, a blue ship will appear when the wine is cold enough to drink.

Something a bit different on the nose: honeysuckle, lemon, ripe melon and seaside undergrowth. In the mouth its an acid forward style, showing some minerals followed up some apple, peach and apricot fruit in the middle. The finish shows off more crunchy minerals and tangy acid. A big bowl of mussels is in order when you’ve got a bottle of this in the fridge, but maybe a bit too much acid for drinking by itself. 89Pts

Source: Broadway Liquor Distributors Price: $40 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.mardefrades.com

Martin Codax 2006

Just when I though I’d tasted just about every Spanish Albariño in Australia, two more pop onto my desk. That’s not quite true, I know there are at least two others I haven’t seen, but thats just semantics. This is another very good wine in the $30 price bracket, I don’t think anyone could complain about the range of Spanish whites that are available in this price bracket these days.

The wine is named after one of Galicia’s oldest known minstrels, and to celebrate this guy’s work you get some sheet music on the (synthetic) cork. Its bass clef on this bottle. I gave it a go on the ol’ Fender Jazz, but it’s not really my thing. The wine is tho.

An elegant nose of peach and pear with some jasmine and waxy lemon peel. Its feels quite delicate and lightly textured in the mouth, but look a bit deeper and you’ll find there is a strong acid backbone. I’d say that this is made in a fairly straight forward way that lets the fruit do all the talking, i.e. without out any lees stirring etc. White peach, lime and apple with a touch of passion fruit. A tidy finish with some chalky minerals. Far too easy to drink, there should be a warning on the label. 90 Pts

Adegas Galegas Dionisos 2007

This is a new wine for Ce Soir Imports, and it should be available later in the year. There is no sub region specified, but it has all the hallmarks of a wine from Val do Salnes. Adegas Galegas is a small producer that is part of the large Grupo Galiciano that make a huge range of wines in Galicia, including a very interesting looking Marc called Ada that has little kids running around the bottle. 

Crisp apple, pear and lime, with white peach, jasmine and a bit of smoke. In the mouth its shows direct acid and good texture with more apple, kaffir lime leaves, plenty of minerally acid and a bit of musk stick. The quality really shows here, it's in the lean and minerally camp of Albariño. A very worthy addition to the growing number of Albariño available in Australia. 90 Pts.

Source: Ce Soir Imports Price: $30 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.galiciano.com

Lusco Albariño 2005

It looks like the weather gods are having one last go at making it uncomforably hot here in Melbourne. 37 Today and plenty of 37-40 degree days for the rest of the week. So don't expect many tasting notes of big Reds from Spain this week, although thats mainly what's in the tasting pile at the moment. It cooled down a bit this afternoon, so I popped the cork on this one. The price from the importer is a bit steep, there are plenty of other Albarinos around for about $20 less.

Holding a pale straw colour in the glass with aromas of white peach and lemon with a bit of shaley minerals. In the mouth its more lean and steely than generous, showing some tidy acid and a long finish. Tight fruit on the palate, lemons and peach with some apples that add complexity. There is some sage towards the finish with the swirling minerals. I like it, but its been priced quite above the growing market of Spanish whites. 90 Pts

Granbazan Albariño ‘Amber’ 2005

I've been meaning to buy the 2006 of this wine for a while, I've been downing bottles of the stuff at bars but haven't written it up yet. So when I stopped in to Rathdowne Cellars and saw a bottle of the 2005, it went straight in the basket. The packaging on this has to be one of the most kitsch out there, but it somehow works and draws your attention straight to this funky little bottle. 

Its the colour of old hay in the glass and shows some white peach, florally lemon, and a shake of sherbet on the nose. Quite powerful in the mouth, it walks a fine line between lean and full flavoured with a spine of acid to keep everything ship-shape. The palate shows mostly bright green apples, but with some lime/grapefruit sherbet and slatey minerals. A generous finish with some more of those lovely minerals and a touch of apricot. Drinking really well now, you could keep it around for a couple of years without too much harm. 90 Pts.

Source: Rathdowne Cellars Price: $38 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.agrodebazansa.es

Castro Martin 2006

I think this is the last Albariño in the tasting pile  at the moment. I'll duck out and get some more over the Christmas break. This is the most fun albariño around, it has the most expressive albariño aromatic characters, doesn't break the bank and so easy to drink.  

Castro Martin is made from estate owned vines in the Valle del Salnés, one of the coolest areas of Rias Brixas.  Most vineyards in Rias Brixas are quite small family holdings with the grapes sold off to the bigger bodegas or as part of Co-Op. While its not unheard of for a bodega to make a wine solely from its own vines, it is seen to be an additional sign of quality within the region.

A light straw colour, with the trademark Castro Martin nose of white peach, jasmine and honeysuckle with some green lemony goodness. One of the things I love about Albariño is the mouth feel, and this doesn't disappoint.  Slightly oily, but with just the right amount of acid to keep you mouth fresh and ready for more.  This bottle is still a little, its showing tangy lemon and apple with a bit of melon.  Fluffy white peach and musk sticks as it warms up a bit more.  A bit of sage and lemons on the finish. 90 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: $30 Closure: Synthetic Cork

Web: www.bodegascastromartin.com

Other Vintages: 2004 2005 

Albariño de Fefiñanes 2006

Albarino seems to be flavour of the month at the moment in Melbourne.  The 06s have landed and just about every bar I walk into has one by the glass.  Unfortunately, most are served way too cold and the punters must be walking away thinking that albariño is Spanish for riesling. Of course its not all bad, there are people on the ball. Bar Lourinha are doing a great job serving their albariño at about 10 degrees.  You can always warm it up with your hands.

When I had a look at the 2005 of this wine in February, I didn't think much would top it.  But the 06 is something else altogether.  As with many of the other 2006 albariños I've tasted, this is more about the fruit.  If its that minerally element that draws you to albariño, don't worry its still there supporting in a supporting role.

Big wack of white peach, apple and pear with some honey suckle on the nose.  Bit of lemon and spice shows up as the wine gets warmer.  Luxury mouthfeel, well balanced and just the right amount of everything, good length, tangy and complex but fresh.  More white peach and pear on the back palate, with apple up front. As it warms up a touch of ginger and lemon oil with some sweet kaffir lime/orange on the finish.  A flinty, minerally note is shot through the wine, that makes the whole thing that much more interesting.  One of the most intriguing white wines I've had from Spain. Ever.  94 Pts. 

Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $40 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.fefinanes.com

Other Vintages: 2005

Valmiñor Albariño 2006

Rias Brixas apparently had a great year in 2006, and if this wine is anything to go by I'm looking forward to drinking more albariños from this vintage over the next few months. From this vintage so far I see great, fresh fruit with the usual stone fruits, but also some tropical fruits on the nose and palate as well.

Very pale in the glass with aromas of white peaches and lemons with a tropical fruit mix.  A bit more air add some white flower notes.  Smooth, but fleshy with great balance and length.  More tropical fruit on the palate, a bit of melon, pear and lemon with some minerals on the finish.  Good intensity and very pure fruit.  91 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $30 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.adegasvalminor.com