Tinto y Blanco

It looks like the weather gods are having one last go at making it uncomforably hot here in Melbourne. 37 Today and plenty of 37-40 degree days for the rest of the week. So don't expect many tasting notes of big Reds from Spain this week, although thats mainly what's in the tasting pile at the moment. It cooled down a bit this afternoon, so I popped the cork on this one. The price from the importer is a bit steep, there are plenty of other Albarinos around for about $20 less.

Holding a pale straw colour in the glass with aromas of white peach and lemon with a bit of shaley minerals. In the mouth its more lean and steely than generous, showing some tidy acid and a long finish. Tight fruit on the palate, lemons and peach with some apples that add complexity. There is some sage towards the finish with the swirling minerals. I like it, but its been priced quite above the growing market of Spanish whites. 90 Pts

I've been meaning to buy the 2006 of this wine for a while, I've been downing bottles of the stuff at bars but haven't written it up yet. So when I stopped in to Rathdowne Cellars and saw a bottle of the 2005, it went straight in the basket. The packaging on this has to be one of the most kitsch out there, but it somehow works and draws your attention straight to this funky little bottle. 

Its the colour of old hay in the glass and shows some white peach, florally lemon, and a shake of sherbet on the nose. Quite powerful in the mouth, it walks a fine line between lean and full flavoured with a spine of acid to keep everything ship-shape. The palate shows mostly bright green apples, but with some lime/grapefruit sherbet and slatey minerals. A generous finish with some more of those lovely minerals and a touch of apricot. Drinking really well now, you could keep it around for a couple of years without too much harm. 90 Pts.

Source: Rathdowne Cellars Price: $38 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.agrodebazansa.es

I think this is the last Albariño in the tasting pile  at the moment. I'll duck out and get some more over the Christmas break. This is the most fun albariño around, it has the most expressive albariño aromatic characters, doesn't break the bank and so easy to drink.  

Castro Martin is made from estate owned vines in the Valle del Salnés, one of the coolest areas of Rias Brixas.  Most vineyards in Rias Brixas are quite small family holdings with the grapes sold off to the bigger bodegas or as part of Co-Op. While its not unheard of for a bodega to make a wine solely from its own vines, it is seen to be an additional sign of quality within the region.

A light straw colour, with the trademark Castro Martin nose of white peach, jasmine and honeysuckle with some green lemony goodness. One of the things I love about Albariño is the mouth feel, and this doesn't disappoint.  Slightly oily, but with just the right amount of acid to keep you mouth fresh and ready for more.  This bottle is still a little, its showing tangy lemon and apple with a bit of melon.  Fluffy white peach and musk sticks as it warms up a bit more.  A bit of sage and lemons on the finish. 90 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Cost: $30 Closure: Synthetic Cork

Web: www.bodegascastromartin.com

Other Vintages: 2004 2005 

Albarino seems to be flavour of the month at the moment in Melbourne.  The 06s have landed and just about every bar I walk into has one by the glass.  Unfortunately, most are served way too cold and the punters must be walking away thinking that albariño is Spanish for riesling. Of course its not all bad, there are people on the ball. Bar Lourinha are doing a great job serving their albariño at about 10 degrees.  You can always warm it up with your hands.

When I had a look at the 2005 of this wine in February, I didn't think much would top it.  But the 06 is something else altogether.  As with many of the other 2006 albariños I've tasted, this is more about the fruit.  If its that minerally element that draws you to albariño, don't worry its still there supporting in a supporting role.

Big wack of white peach, apple and pear with some honey suckle on the nose.  Bit of lemon and spice shows up as the wine gets warmer.  Luxury mouthfeel, well balanced and just the right amount of everything, good length, tangy and complex but fresh.  More white peach and pear on the back palate, with apple up front. As it warms up a touch of ginger and lemon oil with some sweet kaffir lime/orange on the finish.  A flinty, minerally note is shot through the wine, that makes the whole thing that much more interesting.  One of the most intriguing white wines I've had from Spain. Ever.  94 Pts. 

Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $40 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.fefinanes.com

Other Vintages: 2005

Rias Brixas apparently had a great year in 2006, and if this wine is anything to go by I'm looking forward to drinking more albariños from this vintage over the next few months. From this vintage so far I see great, fresh fruit with the usual stone fruits, but also some tropical fruits on the nose and palate as well.

Very pale in the glass with aromas of white peaches and lemons with a tropical fruit mix.  A bit more air add some white flower notes.  Smooth, but fleshy with great balance and length.  More tropical fruit on the palate, a bit of melon, pear and lemon with some minerals on the finish.  Good intensity and very pure fruit.  91 Pts.

Source: The Spanish Acquisition Price: $30 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.adegasvalminor.com

Now this is something a little bit left of centre.  Even the name 1853 is a bit odd.  You'd think it was the date of the establishment of the vineyard or the date of some great happening in Spain, but its actually the birth year of the guy who built the Palacios de Fefiñanes. 

Redardless of all that, the wine is very complex with just about all of the things I like about good Albariño but there is also an oxidative aspect to it.   What makes this wine a bit different is that this wine sees 5 months in French and American oak, a fairly new thing in the world of Albarino.  I'm not sure if I prefer the wood treatment or not yet, I might get another bottle of this with the 2006 standard wine in a couple of weeks to compare.

Light straw in colour with a slight green tint.  Shows aromas of white peach, hints of white pepper with pear and honey suckle.  Not as tight and precise as the standard wine. I'd say broad in the mouth, but thats not quite right, perhaps mouth filling.  But balanced with a good shot of acid right where its needed.  Complex on the palate with white peach, pear, minerals, lemon and some salty capers on the long finish.  91 Pts

Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $50 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.fefinanes.com

Albariño certainly seems to be popular at the moment. I'm not sure how its selling, but there are at least 8 very good wines available in Australia now, not bad for a white wine from Spain.  Condes de Albarei is a fairly old co-op of 400 growers with 170 hectares of Albariño in the Salnes Valley, from which they knock out 1.5 million bottles of Albarino a year.

It falls into the glass with a pale straw colour and shows off its aromatics very well.  Lots of floral notes of white peach, apple juice and a slight lemon juice wiff.  Crisp and tangy, but lightly oily at the sames.  Well balanced and full of flavour too : white peach and melon, a bit of minerally acid and lemon.  Great summer drinking.  88 Pts.

Source: Toro/Woods wines Price: Around $30 Closure: Conventional Cork

Web: www.condesdealbarei.com

It has finally happened, a screwcapped albariño has landed on my desk.  And its not your ordinary stelvin, its one of those funky embossed stelvin+ jobs.  But that isn't the only reason to like this wine, its bloody good.

The old Rioja stalwarts, La Rioja Alta, bought this bodega in 1988 and have been putting out consistently good wines ever since.  The vineyards and bodega are located in the O-Rosal sub region of Rias Baixas.

Light gold in colour, the nose has fresh pear and apple fruit with a bit of herb and mineral that adds complexity.  In the mouth its pointed and tight, fresh and a touch oily.  Flavours of apple, pear and a touch of apricot, but its the flinty mineral notes that shine here.  Excelent balance and a very persistent finish.  If you are into albariño, get some of this, you'll love it.  If your new to albariño, it will certinly show you what all the fuss is about.  91 Pts.

Source: Importer Sample Price: Around $35 Closure: Screwcap

Web: www.riojalta.com/lagar.htm

Importer: Negociants Australia

Its been a while since I've had an albarino, now is the perfect time to start getting stuck in.  I still haven't seen a lot of Australian albarino yet, I hear its going in all over the place.

Light in colour, a slight hint of gold. Classic albarino nose of white peach, jasmine and green apple, not as aromatic as the 04, but I may have it a little bit too cold. Fresh and tight in the mouth, crisp acid, lemon, honeydew melon, and a bit of white peach.  Nice and oily too.  There is a herb tang when its cold, but it disappears as the wine warms up.  All I need now is a big plate of mussels or pulpo de galicia. 89 Pts.

Source: Rathdowne Cellars RRP: $30 Closure: Synthetic Cork

Web: www.bodegascastromartin.com